Hot Springs and a Volcano Hike
Funny enough, this trip was intended to be a part of a job that ended up getting canceled at the last minute, so making it a trip on a budget was definitely on point.
The drive to La Fortuna is pretty hectic (from any which way), with the winding roads disappearing into the misty clouds. Although it is warned against and some might not drive in these conditions, for us, this is part of the adventure. Luis and I set off by 8:00pm, hoping to arrive by about midnight. We didn’t miss out on the eery night drive with extremely low visibility. The higher you get, especially past San Ramon, the less you see and of course, the slower you drive but in all honesty, it’s still much faster without any other cars (or huge trucks) on the road.
Luckily our rental had a kind enough manager to wait on us and let us in in the middle of the night. On a side note, I don’t recommend trying to search for and arrive to an Airbnb in the middle of the night, it took us some time to find the place - in our defense, it was down a side street of a side street, and much to our surprise, on a large ranch. The host met us and showed us the way to our stay. This stay was a little different - it was a full-blown RV Camper! It wasn’t as luxurious as the incredible hot spring hotels that La Fortuna has to offer, in fact, hot water wasn’t even an option, which I discovered in the morning. However, this camper did offer a unique lodging option at a fair price and even had a river running along the back that you could hear as you enjoyed your morning coffee.
We were up bright and early to get the day started, and due to the lack of hot water at our stay, we decided to begin at the “free” natural hot springs “El Chollin”, which is a natural hot spring river located right beside one of the most popular and pricey options in the area. Now, I didn’t mention that we decided to do this trip on the busiest weekend of the year in Costa Rica - Easter. Everywhere and Everything was full of tourists and locals alike, including the hot spring river. We arrived around 8:00am and had to walk pretty far down the river to find a spot to get in. Was it worth it? Not completely. I was very keen to get into the warm water as it was a bit cool that morning, but much to my surprise, the water was lukewarm if not… cold. It was then that I realized that you really do get what you pay for! Though it wasn’t what we had hoped for, I still recommend you check out the video to see what it looks like - it was beautiful, and serene. The water shimmered in the morning light, the rushing water sounded perfect, and the feeling of being surrounded by nature was pleasant despite the temperature being a disappointment. After a dip, we decided to go further up the river to check the temperature, and unfortunately, we were met with more cold water and a lot more people. So onward we went!
Our next stop was one I had been waiting for a long time - a hike to the all-mighty Arenal Volcano. Mirador El Silencio is a quiet private reserve located near La Fortuna, Costa Rica, known for its excellent views of the Arenal Volcano and its hiking trails. It’s a fantastic spot for nature enthusiasts seeking a peaceful experience away from the more crowded attractions in the region. Now, keep in mind that at the time of this hike, I was 5 months pregnant, and Luis with his bad leg - I couldn’t say we were all too fit for the task, but in saying that we were still able to complete the hike and more importantly, enjoy it. A highlight for me was when we finally got out of the deep forest (and after what seemed like a never-ending incline), we stepped out to the first viewing point. We had a clear view of the volcano that day which I consider lucky, seeing as on previous trips to La Fortuna the volcano had been clouded over. Just below the viewing point, Luis came across a few fruit trees - Guayaba - the one fruit I will confidently say, that I will never eat again. This fruit is infamous for containing extra protein - worms. Sometimes you get lucky and get a great tasting, worm-free fruit, or perhaps you just don’t notice, but I’ve only had bad experiences and this time was not an exception. After tasting worms and getting a good look at Lake Arenal from above, we trekked onward toward the lava trail. The winds were strong that day, and with a lack of rain, the dust soared through the air. Little by little we made our way up until at last we got to the trails that were what appeared to be completely made of rock. This was the lava trail! It didn’t get easier - it became more steep and precarious, but we made it, and the reward was fantastic. A clear view of the Arenal Volcano in all its glory.
Next stop: lunch. I had a very specific plan for this part but had to make alternative arrangements due to Easter weekend closures. We found El Mercadito for some epic burgers and carried on to the final stop - dessert. In La Fortuna, you can find different chocolate and coffee tours, but I decided to go directly to the end of the line. Chocolate Fusion CR is a unique artisanal shop that has everything chocolate. baked goods, ice creams, hot drinks, a selection of packaged chocolate goods, an insane variety of truffles and specialty chocolates, and even an area to wrap and design if you are to be gifting anything. I ate a sickening amount of chocolate just before getting back on the winding roads to get home. It was a quick but great trip, and would recommend a visit to the quaint town of La Fortuna to experience it all for themself - but perhaps plan a trip to at least one of the hotels with hot springs to really feel the magic of the hot volcanic waters…and maybe after the long hike to soothe your feet!